Martin Margiela SS 2010

jotta skipped over to Paris to catch the Martin Margiela menswear presentation for Spring Summer 2010. Resplendent in all shades of pale, the street cast line up of models and piped elevator voice descriptions cast a 2001 Space Odyssey style serenity over the collection.

There were definite hints of irony in the calm and clinical tones of the female “voice from above”, who coolly described each garment in laymans terms.

The no mess no fuss show saw each gentleman (sourced from the street in the tradition of MMM) walk sans model strut onto the platform, followed by an attendant who helped them into their final garment, usually a jacket or vest. The show was a clear continuation of the Margiela houses' ethos that says the star of the show should always be the garments, rather than supermodels and front row celebs.

Crisp, concise and elegant the collection tracked a progression from minimal, classic and magnificently cut, to subtle affectations of floral motifs in soft screen prints, embroidery and laser cuts.

While Martin Margiela has recently stepped back into the shadows, handing the reigns to his designers, some were heard to say that the collection harked back to the days of yore when the Belgian designer reigned supreme. No doubt a compliment to his protege's.

By Millie Ross